The Easy Guide to Colombia: A 3 Week Itinerary

Latin America is simply a backpackers’ paradise. There is so much to see that you would need an entire lifetime to explore it all. With some friends of mine, I had the chance to spend 3 weeks traveling around Colombia. Here is an easy guide to Colombia, using our itinerary and some of the recommendations I have for you. Keep in mind you will need to pack clothes for all sorts of weather!

Guest post alert: Read more about Pierre at the bottom of the post!

South:

Start: Bogotá

1 – 2 days

When getting to Colombia, there is a fair chance you will land in Bogotá. Although it is definitely worth a stop since you can start feeling the South American vibe there, I must say I personally didn’t fall in love with the city. It still is nice, and you can find a lot of good places to eat, and the hipster district of Candelaria.

Staying for a day or two, you can enjoy the sights from Monserrate, walking around Plaza Bolivar, or visiting the Museo del Oro (Gold museum) which by the way exhibits incredible artifacts.

Recommendations while there : 

• Sitio Casa Candelaria (for a great brunch place)
• Museo del Oro (really worth seeing)

Desierto de la Tatacoa

2 – 3 days

Getting there : Bus from Bogotá to Neiva, then taxi to accommodation

A few hours of bus away from Bogotá, you will find the Desierto de la Tatacoa. This place is an absolute wonder, and offers a good variety of colors, as some parts of the desert have grey soil, where others have orange one. 

Find some accommodation in the heart of the desert, it is 100% worth it. There are many that offer different experiences and prices, depending on you comfort standards.  Most accommodations will have the contact of a tour guide to take you around the different parts of the desert for some day or half-day trips. Watch out though : the heat requires you to wake up pretty early.

On a clear night, don’t miss the opportunity to go to an observatory and enjoy one of the most beautiful night skies you will ever see. Best stargazing session I have ever had. 

Hot tip: One last thing about this Desierto : guides will often offer to take you to “natural” swimming pools at the end of the day, which is tempting, given the heat. Avoid these places ! The only “natural” thing there is the water inside the swimming pools. It is pretty touristic, kind of dirty and most of all it disfigures the landscape. 

Recommendations while there : 

• Casa de Campo : los Cactus (great authentic accommodation)
• Observatioria Astronomico AstroSur (really amazing observatory)

Salento

3 – 4 days

Getting there : Bus from Neiva to Armenia, then taxi to Salento

A completely different type of landscape awaits you there. Driving  up in the mountains, deserts leave room for dense forests and immense green spaces. Keep in mind that moisture rises and temperatures drop as you go up (dress accordingly). This village, although pretty touristic, has managed to keep its authentic spirit, and is an absolute must see for backpackers. Instagram material at every corner. Our hostel (called La Casa de Lili) was very nice, in the vibrant heart of the village, and had the most amazing breakfast.

Around the village, the main activities are hiking and horseback-riding. On the main square, everyday you will find some old Jeep Wranglers which can take you to the hike starting points, or some people promoting their ranches for you to ride horses. Take the time to create some competition between the different people you will see; the prices might substantially drop. Again, if you go for a hike (which I recommend), keep in mind to check the weather beforehand and to equip as required. 

The nightlife in Salento is worth staying there on a weekend, if you can. Watch the square fill up with people drinking beers and dancing as the bars play some Latino music on massive speakers. Have a game or two of Tejo (some sort of bowling game with… explosives!). Let yourself go with the flow in this incredible peace haven in the mountains. 

Recommendations while there :

• Casa de Lili (nice hostel with great breakfast)
• Calle Real (Instagram central)
• Mirador Alto de la Cruz (worth the 200 steps)

Medellín

2 – 3 days

Getting there : Bus from Armenia to Medellín

Here we are. Medellín, the emblematic city of Pablo Escobar, Narcos, and cartels. Well, rest assured : the city has known incredible changes since the 1980’s. It is now a vibrant city, full of hipster boroughs, street art murals and very fancy neighborhoods. The sights are always pretty crazy, as you can see the habitations spread as far as you eye can see, climbing up and down the mountains. 

Moving around, I strongly encourage you to take at least once the famous Metrocable. Authentic and cheap, this means of transportation offers a view over the entire city which is absolutely worth the 60 cent ticket. 

The downtown area is simply centered around the iconic artist of the city : Fernando Botero. An entire square is filled with statues of this artist, and the buildings around fit with the overall offbeat looks of that central area. Be aware that it is pretty crowded. 

The most striking experience we had in Medellín was our visit in Comuna 13. This formerly dangerous and narcos-owned district was reborn a few years ago, because its inhabitants decided to emancipate through hip-hop culture, breakdance, and graffiti. A truly moving and eye-opening visit (why not hire a tour guide there, see recommendations below).

Recommendations while there : 

• Comuna 13 Grafitour : Casa Kolacho (real artists visit the district, even having rap freestyle sessions). Learn more about Comuna 13
• Bar Alambique (not cheap, but the cocktails OMG)
• Day trip to Guatapé (very, very touristic but still very impressive)

North:

Cartagena

2 days

Getting there : Take a plane from Medellín to Cartagena

OK, so here is the city I have most mixed feelings about. By far, it is the one with the most impressive colonial architecture. Everything you would expect from a Caribbean colonial city (including the moist warm weather!). Every building in the city center is worth a picture, the churches will leave you breathless, and the bright colors will satisfy the eye. 

But how sad it is to see how tourism has completely killed the whole spirit of the city ! Beginning with prices which are unbelievably high compared to all other cities in the country. Walking around the center, street merchants, beggars, and “artists” will be so insistent it is even hard to hold a conversation with your friends. Not to mention the risk of pickpockets… 

Nevertheless, this city is a must see on the Colombian Caribbean coast and there are plenty of things to do in Cartagena. Do not miss the chance to visit the eccentric Getsemani neighborhood. It is full of street art, nice coffee shops, and hidden nightclubs for you to enjoy.

Recommendations while there :

• Museo de la Inquisicion (interesting museum even if you are not really into the subject)
• Parque Centenario
• Palenquera (nice bar/restaurant in Getsemani)

There are several different places to stay in the area, but be sure to check out the best hostels in Cartagena for an awesome experience!

La Guajira

2 – 3 days

Getting there : Bus from Cartagena to Riohacha, where we met our 4×4 driver

Ever felt like you want to leave the entire world behind? I definitely have. The closest I got to that was the 3 day trip we had in La Guajira. This peninsula is the northernmost place in all of South America. Scorched by the wind, it is a desert which is only accessible by hiring a driver with a 4×4 and taking 3 days to explore it all and sleep on site. 

The sights, the landscape, the wilderness of this land are simply mesmerizing. I have never felt so isolated in my entire life. The only people you will see are a few local kids blocking the 4×4 trails asking for candy to let you go by.

Depending on the operator you decide to book this trip with, you will have different accommodations, but most of them are similar : simple guest houses in which you sleep outside (on the beach!) inside traditional hammocks. 

Recommendations while there :

• Hotel Solsticio (very nice guesthouse in Riohacha, owners were adorable, giving us the right tips to enjoy while staying safe, and have great stories to tell)

Parque Nacional de la Tayrona

2 – 3 days

Getting there : Bus from Riohacha to the park entrance

In this national park, you can expect to find lush forests, incredible beaches, and relaxing quiet. The perfect Caribbean landscape is in Tayrona. A perfect final step to this incredible itinerary.

The entrance in the park is around $15/day depending on the season. The only way to move around in the park is, again, to hike or to ride a horse (relatively expensive). To enjoy going to the best spots of the park, you will have to sleep on site. The biggest cheap accommodation you can find is the camping spot in Cabo San Juan (tents and hammocks). There is a restaurant/bar where you can buy some beer to keep hydrated while partying on the beach. 

Hot tip: The entrances to the park are too far from all major cities to walk the distance. Which means you will need a means of transportation. Plan ahead how you intend to get back to the city when you exit the park. If not, your options will only be the crooked taxis which will ask for insane fares, and you will be in no position to negotiate.

Recommendations while there :

• Moon Wind Hostel (great hostel just outside the park, if you need a night before getting into the trek)
• Sleep in Cabo San Juan when inside the park (book ahead, you wouldn’t want to get there and find out they have nowhere for you to sleep)

From the park, we went to Santa Marta’s airport, flew back to Bogotá, then all the way back to France, with a few hours of sleep to catch up, and our heads full of incredible memories.